It reached to the floor and fit the curves of the body by using darts and a nipped-in waist. In 1930, Hanoi artist Cát Tường, also known as Le Mur, designed a dress inspired by the áo ngũ thân and by Paris fashions. The first modernized ao dai appeared at a Paris fashion show in 1921. Huế's Đồng Khánh Girl's High School, which opened in 1917, was widely praised for the ao dai uniform worn by its students.
Vietnamese garments throughout the centuries.Women could wear the dress with the top few buttons undone, revealing a glimpse of their yếm underneath. It had a high collar and was buttoned in the same fashion as a modern ao dai. Compared to a modern ao dai, the front and back flaps were much broader and the fit looser and much shorter. The gown appeared to have two-flaps with slits on both sides, features preserved in the later ao dai. The áo ngũ thân (five part dress) had two flaps sewn together in the back, two flaps sewn together in the front, and a "baby flap" hidden underneath the main front flap. This style is very different from the áo tứ thân, the long, open, and sleeveless garment that was the formal Northern Vietnamese women's outfit before the eighteenth century. The ao dài is considered to be of Cham origin, where it is similar to the dress of Cham women ( tah in Cham), with only the addition of a collar differentiating the áo dài. The members of the southern court were thus distinguished from the courtiers of the Trịnh Lords in Hanoi, who wore áo giao lĩnh with long skirts.
To distinguish the southern people from the northerners, in 1744, Lord Nguyễn Phúc Khoát of Huế decreed that both men and women at his court wear trousers and a gown with buttons down the front. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Vietnam was divided into northern and southern realms, with the Nguyễn dynasty ruling the south.
#AO IN BLACK DRAGON VIEWER CODE#
The following Lê dynasty also criticized women for violating Confucian dress norms, but only enforced the dress code haphazardly, so skirts and halter tops remained the norm. When the Ming dynasty occupied Dai Viet during the Fourth Era of Northern Domination in 1407, it forced the women to wear Chinese-style pants. Aristocrats, on the other hand, favored a cross-collared robe called áo giao lĩnh, which bore resemblance to historical Vietnamese clothing. He is dressed in a cross-collared robe ( áo giao lĩnh) which was commonly worn by all social castes of Vietnam before the 19th centuryįor centuries, peasant women typically wore a halter top ( yếm) underneath a blouse or overcoat, alongside a skirt ( váy). The ao dai can be paired with the nón lá or the khăn vấn. The ao dai is one of the few Vietnamese words that appear in English-language dictionaries. However, men also wear ao dai or modified ao dai during weddings or formal occasions. The áo dai has traditionally been marketed with a feminine appeal, with "Miss Ao Dai" pageants being very popular in Vietnam and with overseas Vietnamese. On Tết and other occasions, Vietnamese men may wear an áo gấm ( brocade robe), a version of the ao dai made of thicker fabric. The dress was extremely popular in South Vietnam in the 1960s and early 1970s. In the 1950s, Saigon designers tightened the fit to produce the version worn by Vietnamese women today. The updated look was promoted by the artists and magazines of Tự Lực văn đoàn (Self-Reliant Literary Group) as a national costume for the modern era. Inspired by Paris fashions, Nguyễn Cát Tường and other Hanoi artists redesigned the ngũ thân as a modern dress in the 1920s and 1930s. This outfit evolved into the áo ngũ thân, a five-paneled aristocratic gown worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The word ao dai was originally applied to the outfit worn at the court of the Nguyễn Lords at Huế in the 18th century. The term can be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as "nhật bình". It is a long, split tunic dress worn over trousers. Besides suits and dresses nowadays, men and women can also wear áo dài on formal occasions. The áo dài ( English pronunciation: / ˈ aʊ ˈ d aɪ, ˈ ɔː ˈ d aɪ, ˈ aʊ ˈ z aɪ/ Vietnamese: ( North), ( South)) is a Vietnamese national garment worn by both sexes but most commonly by women. Without proper rendering support, you may see question marks, boxes, or other symbols instead of chữ Nôm.
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